If you’re thinking about getting a puppy, DON”T think twice!  That is—don’t think about getting two.  Do think about the 10-15 year commitment you’re about to make.  Do think about the financial investment and definitely think about double the amount of pee and poo!

The biggest challenge of bringing home two puppies at the same time is their natural tendency to bond very closely with each other, instead of with you.  This is true even if the dogs are not from the same litter or even the same breed or gender.  The puppies will become inseparable and this can prevent them from establishing a meaningful relationship with the human members of the pack.

If you’re thinking that two puppies will entertain each other while you’re away at work, you’re right.  However, if you can imagine the mayhem that one puppy can create; just think about havoc that two can produce.  It’s not a pretty picture.  A better solution would be to find a puppy day care or wait until a family member can be home for a few weeks while the puppy is adjusting to his new home.  You might even have a friend or neighbor who’s will to baby-sit for the joy of having a puppy without the long-term responsibilities and costs of owning a dog.

If you have two children and they each want their own puppy—just say NO!  Since when do kids have the right to make the rules?  Remember that the adults in the family are probably going to end up doing the real work of raising the puppy and one puppy is more than enough for any person to handle.

If you eventually want to have two dogs anyway, that’s great, but get one first.  Let him get acclimated for a few months and then add the second.  That way they’ll both have a chance to bond with you.  The chance of your pulling your hair out in frustration and returning one to the breeder or worse, the pound, will be greatly reduced.

The financial investment and potential for disaster goes without saying, but what about training?  Each puppy will have to be trained and they’ll have to be trained separately.  That even means housebreaking!  If you find a piddle or pile in the house, how are you going to know who’s not getting with the program?  If you want your companion to learn how to sit, down, come and stay, you’ll have to focus on each dog separately.  Trust me!  They will learn from each other, but it won’t be the things you want them to learn!

If you’ve already gone down the road by adopting two at the same time, all hope is not lost.  There are things you can do.  Please let me know if I can help.  I’m interested in Happy Tails!  Please feel free to reach me at Rachel@MaverickRanch.net or Rachel@HappyTailsPetTraining.com.

As you are well aware, Hobie is adorable.  I really think you have the makings of a great dog and I appreciate your giving me the opportunity to help him reach his potential.  He’s very smart, so it’s great that you’re giving him a sound foundation. Every minute you put into him now will pay big dividends in the future.

Here’s recap of his first lesson—with the help of your notes!

·         CostCo is a great resource for Pampered Pet Treats, Raw Chicken Wings, Fish Oil or Vitamin E Oil capsules.  Give him one or two chicken wings every few days—thoroughly defrosted and not cooked.  Give him one vitamin capsule per day.  This will help his coat be nice and shiny.  Their canned food is also excellent, as is the Swanson’s chicken broth which you can use to moisten his food once in awhile.

·         Daniel’s has a freezer in the back by the meat section for dogs.  They have great marrow bones and ground up chicken.  You can use the chicken to mix in with his kibble.  The bones can be used over and over and after all the good stuff is gone you can smear them with smooth peanut butter and continue to use them.  Use the peanut butter in a Kong toy, too.  Keep it in the freezer until you’re ready to use.

·         Rite-Aide or Wal-Mart have good kiddy pools to use on the patio.  Only use an inch or two of water to begin with

·         Homemade toys:  1) take a small packing box and put a few treats inside. Then tape it up with masking tape and let him work to tear it apart and get the treat.  2)Roll up newspapers into a “log” and wrap with making tape to make another tear-apart toy.  Messy to clean up, but will keep him busy for hours. 3) put a toy inside an old sock or panty hose and tie a knot in the end

·         Remember to rotate his toys and not to give him too many at any one time.

·         Keep the tennis ball and ducky for interactive play only with you.  Keep repeating the words “ball” and “ducky” so he learns the difference.

·         Use ducky as a tug toy and tell him to “tug!”  Remember to keep it low and on the ground to entice him to chase it.  Tell him to “tug” and let him win once in awhile.

·         Tell him to “give” to release a toy and pop a treat in his mouth.  You should already have the treat in your hand.

·         Tell Hobie to “take-it” and toss the ball or ducky out a short way from you.  Then tell him to “bring” it back to you.  Have him “give” and pop in a treat.

·         Tell him to “find ducky” and “hide” it (so he can see it) behind your back.

·         Work on “leave-it” and try to get eye contact.

·         Tell him “look-look” and point to your eyes whenever you get eye contact.

·         Say “show me the belly” whenever he offers it to you and love him to pieces.

·         Say “kiss-kiss” whenever he’s giving you kisses.

·         Keep his drag line on him whenever you’re around.

·         Say “Hobie, Come!” and gently coax him to you and reward with a treat.  You may have to lure him with a cookie and run back so he’s tempted to follow.

·         Ask him to “stand” and lure him with a treat.  Hold for a moment and then give him the cookie.

·         Ask him to “sit” and hold his collar so he tucks his bottom forward rather than rocking back.  Put the treat right on his nose and move it up and back to get a good sit.

·         After he performs tell him “good____.”  Like, “good sit,” “good come,” etc.

·         Corrections that come from God are the best kind so he doesn’t know when they’re coming and doesn’t associate them with you being there.  You can use a soda can with a few pennies taped inside.

·         Standardize your command for “go potty” or “get busy.”  Say it quietly to get him going and as he’s going.  Party like a rock star when he’s finished!!!

·         Withhold water after 6 or 7 PM and cover his crate with a blanket to make it more den-like.

·         Don’t ever let him out of his crate if he’s whining or barking.  Wait until he’s quiet—even if it’s only for a few seconds.  It’s fine to tell him to “be quiet!” or to bang the side of the crate to break his attention.  Try not to let him escalate into a tantrum.

·         Take him for several short walks every day. Don’t avoid the heat, even though he probably won’t like it.

·         Try the 7/7 rule every week: 7 new people (old, young, fat, skinny, etc.) and 7 new experiences (surfaces, places, games).  I’ll ask you to report progress on his reactions.

This is a lot for you and the little guy, so be patient and call me with any questions or concerns.  See you soon.

Happy tails,

Rachel

310-717-0740

619-445-1777

As you are well aware, your new puppy is adorable—and beautiful!  Her face is to die for!  Based on our first lesson, I think you have the makings of a great dog and I appreciate your giving me the opportunity to help her reach her potential.  She’s really smart, so it’s good that you’re going to give her a sound foundation.  Every minute you spend now will pay big dividends in the future—and may help you stay one step ahead of her.

Here are some reminders for you to work on.  Remember to engage her in interactive play like tugging or wrestling every few minutes during a learning session.  Right now she has the attention span of a gnat!   The balance of play and discipline will be the measure of your future relationship.

“HERE:”  keep a drag line on her and call her to you—you can run backwards to encourage her.  Then celebrate:  “GOOD HERE!!!”  Reward with treats.

“SIT:” remember to keep her head up and the treat right near her nose

“OKAY:”  This is your release word

“DOWN:”  Keep the treat right by her nose.  Move it slowly down and in front of her.  If she doesn’t go down you’re either moving the treat too fast or too far in front of her.  Wait for a second or two before you release her.

“STAND:”  Again, lure with the treat and have her hold for a second or two.  You can put one finger under her loin to remind her to stand.

“TUG:”  use a special toy that she only gets when she plays with you.  Make it rough and tumble and let her win sometimes.  We didn’t talk about “GIVE,” but if she doesn’t let go tell her to “GIVE” and pop a treat in her mouth.

“TAKE IT:” Roll the special ball between the two of you and try and have her “BRING” it back.  Don’t force her, but use the drag line gently.

“GO POTTY OR GET BUSY:”  Go ballistic when she does it!

Lots of hands-on praise and lots of treats.  Don’t worry about the ZOOMIES!  They’re completely normal.  Just get a video camera, stand back and watch her go crazy.  Try taking her for a short walk on lead.  You can also get a Flexi and take her to the park.  The good news is that after the zoomies, they usually crash!

As always, please call me with any questions or concerns.

Rachel

310-717-0740

619-445-1777

Shooter’s one lucky pup.  You’re both devoting a lot of energy to his education and it shows.  You’re doing a great job.  I guarantee you the biting will not be a long-term issue.

• Periods of craziness are normal for a puppy Shooter’s age.  I call them the “zoomies.”  Just give him some space and watch him go crazy.  Or,  try and show him he can learn to control himself by trying to do the “sit/stand” exercise.  The good news is that after the zoomies, they usually crash!
• Try isolation when he’s biting or aggressive.  You only have to be gone for a minute or two and he should be left completely alone.
• Play the “where’s Daddy/where’s Mommy” game.  The person who’s hiding calls him excitedly as soon as the person holding him say’s “Where’s _____?”  Explode in celebration when he finds you.  As he gets better, make the game tougher.
• Continue what you’re doing with “FETCH, BRING, GIVE.”  He doesn’t get a treat unless he brings the ball most of the way to you.  Don’t bring the treat out too fast.  You want him to hold the ball until you tell him to “GIVE.”  But, this is one of those exercises that you need to build slowly.
• Keep working on “SIT,” “DOWN” and “STAND.”  Have him sit for almost everything.  Start extending the length of time he’s able to hold his position by telling him to “WAIT.”   This is the beginning of one of the most important commands he’ll learn: “STAY!”
• Work on having him “SHAKE” when he’s in a calm mood.
• Begin feeding him in his crate.  Put him in there for short periods with a Kong or chew and never let him out unless he’s quiet and calm.
• Continue working on all the exercises we started last time.
• We didn’t talk about using the spray bottle, but it works for “OFF.”

As always, call or write me at any time with questions or concerns.

Your new puppy is really “getting it” and it shows.  Shooter was such a good boy at his lesson this week.  Much more respectful of you and absolutely willing to please.  So now it’s time for us to continue his training with a follow-up this week.

• Continue all the previous exercises and begin to extend the time he “WAITS” before you release him or give him the next command.  Make sure you give him lots of hands-on praise—even before you give him a treat.
• Work on “SIT, WAIT, COME.”  Run backwards when you call him into you so he’s really motivated.  Begin moving to one side or the other to increase his attention while he waits.
• Extend the distance for “FETCH” and try getting him to bring the ball closer and closer to you.
• Play tug or wrestle with him—especially as he gets better at “LEAVE IT!”  Stop playing before he wants to stop.  Leave him wanting more.
• “ROLL OVER”
• “SHOW ME THE BELLY”
• Don’t forget to keep reinforcing “LOOK, LOOK” when he gives you eye contact.
• Remember to use the grinder a little bit every day or so.  Keep handling his feet.  I’ll show you how to start trimming the hair on his pads next time.
• It’s not too early to get him used to having his teeth brushed.  Just start slowly and if he resists, rub the brush in something yummy like peanut butter or cheese.

Call or email me with any questions and let me know when you’d like to schedule your next lesson.

Happy tails,

Rachel

By now, your dog should be making some good progress.

Here’s a list of the things you should be working on:

• “COME:” One of you should hold him and let the other one tease him and then call.  He should come in like a bullet.  Always praise the come and don’t do it off leash unless you are positive that he’ll come.
• “SIT:”  piece of cake
• “WAIT:” for longer and longer periods and with distractions
• “LOOK, LOOK:” point to your eyes and get eye contact
• “FETCH:” Save the tennis ball for this exercise.  Use the word BALL so he learns what it is.
• “BRING:” Encourage him to come all the way in to you
• “GIVE:” Praise enthusiastically
• “OFF:” Reinforce it by physically removing him
• “TWIST:” Add one or two in a row
• “SPIN:”
• “LEAVE IT!” Wait for eye contact
• “WHERE’S MOMMY? WHERE’S DADDY’S?” You should be able to hide pretty well by now
• “DOWN:”  Make sure he stays down and waits before you release
• “STAND:”
• “SHAKE:”
• “ROLL OVER:”
• “SHOW ME YOUR BELLY:”
• “PAWS UP:”
• “1-2-3—OK:”  Again, to make him wait and keep him focused
• “BACK:” Keep the treat and your hands low—right at the level of his nose and walk straight into him
• “GO TO BED:”  Just tell him this whenever you want him to get in his crate.  Use a cookie

He’s already got quite a vocabulary!!

With all training:

• Stop before he wants to—leave him wanting more.
• Play every few minutes with a tug or a belly rub—lots of hands on interaction, but stop before he gets mouthy—or immediately when he starts to bite—then isolate him
• Try to give one positive command and expect him to carry it out.  Don’t keep repeating what you want him to do
• Really start mixing up his routines so he doesn’t always do the same thing in the same order.  Keep him thinking.
• Start adding distractions so he has to think about what he’s doing and learns to control himself.
• Even though he’s picked up on things very quickly, you’ll need to continue reinforcing them throughout his life.

Next time we’ll work on walking on a loose lead, and some scent games.

Any questions?  Give me a call any time.  Please recommend me to any of your friends who might need help or just want a dog as smart as Shooter.

Everyone wants their dog to shoot back to them like a bullet the second they’re called.  That’s not a bad reason for my having named my young Border Collie, Shooter!  He needs to learn that “COME” means stop whatever you’re doing and come directly to me as fast as you can.  No hesitation!  That means he ignores the dog barking outside the fence, the cat prowling near the gate or the bicycle zooming down the walk.  It’s a thing of beauty to see a dog come bounding into his owner—tail wagging and filled with excitement just to be near the person he loves, trusts and respects.  For the trained dog it’s like coming home after a hard day at work.  The AKC has incorporated “come when called” as Item #7 on the list of 10 exercises required to earn the Canine Good Citizen^® (CGC) certificate.

Here’s a brief recap of the first 6 exercised we’ve already covered:

Item #1: accept a friendly stranger

Item #2: sit politely for petting

Item #3: appearance and grooming

Item #4; walking on a loose lead

Item #5: walk through a crowd

Item #6: sit and down on command and staying in place

When being evaluated, Shooter will be left on either a “SIT”  or a “DOWN” and the handler will walk about 10 feet away and call him.  You can say either STAY or WAIT and you can encourage Shooter along the way.  The important thing is that he comes.  He doesn’t have to sit in front of you or do anything special—just come.  Unless you’re preparing for a competitive sport like Obedience or Rally, all you want is for Shooter to come running into you for lots of hands-on praise.

Always begin training Shooter to “COME” while he’s on lead.  This is one command you want to make sure he obeys!  Start with him on a relatively short (6’) lead and have him sitting in front of you.  Tell him to “COME! and reel him in to you—quickly and enthusiastically.  I like to run backwards a bit to encourage his momentum.  Always praise generously, first with your hands and then with a treat.  Only give the command one time, but be cheerful and excited.  If he doesn’t come, go to him and physically bring him to where you were standing when you called him.  Put him back and try again.  Don’t get angry or frustrated—just start over.  ALWAYS praise Shooter when he comes to you.

As he gets better, begin using a longer lead and mix things up a bit.  Even try turning and running before he reaches you and then turn around and give him a huge hug.  Don’t try this off-lead for a long time and even then, begin it in a fenced area.  Even though Shooter will learn what the word “COME” means very quickly, this is one exercise you’ll want to practice forever.  If he learns—just once—that he doesn’t have to come when called, you’ve created a dangerous situation and you need to go back to the beginning steps and proceed cautiously.

I promised a trick this week so let’s  teach Shooter to “ROLL OVER!” Start with him in the “DOWN” position.  Kneel next to or in front of him.  Hold a treat in your right hand, really close to his nose.  Move your hand in a circular motion back and towards his shoulder blade until he rolls over on his side.  Keep luring him around with the treat close to his nose at all times and tell him how terrific he is.  For the next step move your hand from the shoulder blade towards his backbone.  Tell him to “ROLL OVER.” This should lure him onto his back and over to the other side.  Celebrate the minute he lands on his opposite side.  Keep practicing and tickle his tummy as he twists his heads to reach the cookie.  As soon as he gets the idea, you can begin to use a slightly less exaggerated hand gesture, but keep using the treat for awhile.

With any new trick, practice it three to five times and then quit.  Letting Shooter think about it overnight seems to help.  You always want to stop before he gets frustrated.

Make sure those tails are happy and let me know how you’re doing.

Until now we’ve covered 5 of the 10 exercises that Shooter needs to learn in order to earn his AKC Canine Good Citizen^® (CGC) certification.  If I haven’t mentioned it before, your dog doesn’t need to be a purebred or registered with the American Kennel Club to receive his CGC certificate.  The program is designed to encourage all dogs, purebred and mixed breeds alike, to become responsible members of their families and communities.  Evaluators are instructed to make the processes fun and rewarding for both the canine and human members of the team.  Most evaluators, including me, want dogs to pass and have a great time doing it.  The CGC is the basis for anything and everything you want to accomplish with your dog—even if you just want him to be a happy companion and couch potato!

Item #6 involves “sit and down on command”  and “staying in place.”  We’ve already covered “SIT” and “DOWN” so this part should be easy.  You can repeat the commands several times and the dog can take a “reasonable” (it’s up to the evaluator to decide what’s reasonable!) amount of time to respond.  Shooter just needs to show that he knows how to “SIT” and “DOWN.”

The next part is a little trickier and infinitely more important—sometimes a matter of life and death.  That’s “STAY!”  I can leave Shooter in either a sit or a down. I’ll attach a 20-foot line, tell him to “STAY” and then walk to the end of the line.  Shooter can change positions, but he must stay in place until he’s called, which is Item #7.

Begin teaching “STAY” in tiny, tiny increments.  Shooter needs to understand the concept and have success before he’s asked to stay for any length of time or with ANY distractions.  Start with him sitting next to you.  Say “STAY” and put your open palm right in front of his nose.  Dogs are very cued into hand signals and body language.  If he stays for 1 second release and praise him with hands-on affection—even a belly rub.  Then do it again—maybe for 2 seconds this time.  I’m not exaggerating—just a few seconds at a time in the beginning.  If he moves, gently put him back into position and repeat the command.  Don’t get angry, he has no idea what he’s doing to get your praise at this point.  Just keep it happy and keep pushing him to remain in place for a few more seconds each time.  Eventually, Shooter will be able to sit still for 5 minutes at a time, but that won’t happen overnight or even in a month.  Every dog is different and some will catch onto the game right away, while others need more time for the lesson to soak in.

Don’t get frustrated or give up.  Just imagine how this skill could save Shooter’s life.  Think about being able to tell him to “STAY” in order to avoid being hit by an oncoming car!

Once you’re doing pretty well with Shooter sitting next to you, tell him to “STAY” and step right in front of him—your toes to his toes—close!  If he moves, go back beside him and start again. Don’t forget to talk to him and tell him what a good job he’s doing when he’s not moving.  This can be a boring exercise for an active dog and you need to make it worth his while.  When he’s able to stay put with you in front, try stepping to the right or left—still staying very close.  When you’re successful at that stage you can begin upping the ante.  Move further away and try walking all the way around him.  Ask him to stay while another person walks by.  Gradually add as many interesting distractions as you can come up with.  This is called “proofing” and is only done when you’re absolutely positive that Shooter understands what you want.  He’ll make mistakes, so expect them and don’t get excited.  Just put him back into position and start over.

The biggest hint I can give you in teaching a dog to stay is to master the “WATCH ME” OR “LOOK, LOOK”  exercise.  This is where we taught Shooter to look directly into your eyes.  If you can get him to look at you through the training of STAY, you’ll have a much easier time than if his attention is on everything else around him.  Not looking at you during this exercise is an avoidance behavior and makes life a lot more difficult.

Teaching Shooter to “STAY” is so critical that I’ve run out of space for a trick this week, but I promise to have a good one next time.  Until then, make sure those tails are happy and let me know how you’re doing.

Your host is the acclaimed pet trainer, Rachel Amado.

Rachel has over 30 years of experience training, handling, showing and living with various breeds of dogs. She currently enjoys success in both the Obedience and Conformation rings.
She has worked and studied with nationally prominent behaviorists and trainers including:  Cesar Millan, George Alston, Corky Vroom, Pat Hastings, Pat Trotter, Liz Palika, Dennis Fetko, Pat and Ed Gilbert, Catherine Zinsky, Sylvia Bishop and Bobbie Anderson.
Rachel is an active member of two local obedience clubs as well as the American Whippet Club and the Border Collie Society of America.  She also serves on the Board of Directors of the Whippet Health Foundation.
Rachel is a certified AKC Canine Good Citizen evaluator.
She and her husband, Henry Heil, share their beautiful Alpine, CA ranch with several whippets,
a border collie and a donkey named Rosebud.